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	<title>Ethan G. Salwen &#187; Travels</title>
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	<link>http://www.ethansalwen.com</link>
	<description>Journalist in Buenos Aires</description>
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		<title>Quilmes Beach Surprise</title>
		<link>http://www.ethansalwen.com/2010/12/quilmes-beach-surprise/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ethansalwen.com/2010/12/quilmes-beach-surprise/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Dec 2010 02:45:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ethan G. Salwen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Life Among Porteños]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Argentina]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Buenos Aires]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Buenos Aires Day Trips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Quilmes]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.ethansalwen.com/?p=1633</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Took the bus down to Quilmes yesterday for the first time. Whodathunkit.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ethansalwen.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Salwen_101204_1329_d_web_small.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1634" style="border: 3px solid black;" title="Salwen_101204_1329_d_web_small" src="http://www.ethansalwen.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Salwen_101204_1329_d_web_small.jpg" alt="" width="450" height="338" /></a></p>
<p>Took the bus down to Quilmes yesterday for the first time. Whodathunkit.</p>
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		<title>And the Pulling Begins</title>
		<link>http://www.ethansalwen.com/2010/11/bullfight-in-paraguay/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ethansalwen.com/2010/11/bullfight-in-paraguay/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Nov 2010 14:03:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ethan G. Salwen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Culture & Stuff]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bullfihgt]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Itá]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lost in Paraguay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paraguay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[South America]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.ethansalwen.com/blog/?p=1552</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ethansalwen.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20050203_0209_EGS_d_blog.jpg"></a><a href="http://www.ethansalwen.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20050203_0209_EGS_d_blog1.jpg"></a><a href="http://www.ethansalwen.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20050203_0209_EGS_d_blog2.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1556" style="border: 3px solid black;" title="And the Pulling Begins" src="http://www.ethansalwen.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/20050203_0209_EGS_d_blog2.jpg" alt="" width="504" height="758" /></a></p>
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		<title>The Colonel of Paraguayan Brick-Making</title>
		<link>http://www.ethansalwen.com/2009/02/the-colonel-of-paraguayan-brick-making/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ethansalwen.com/2009/02/the-colonel-of-paraguayan-brick-making/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Feb 2009 16:36:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ethan G. Salwen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Adventures in Paraguay]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://ethansalwen.wordpress.com/?p=312</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&#8220;While we talked a lot about technology, sometimes the good ole stuff is pretty neat. These are two of six men who make two trips each day, seven days a week, to haul dirt from the other shore further up the river. It&#8217;s the first stage of making bricks. &#8220;I found them in Paraguay, and [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_313" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 460px"><img class="size-full wp-image-313" title="20050210_0396_egs" src="http://ethansalwen.files.wordpress.com/2009/02/20050210_0396_egs.jpg" alt="Boatmen take a break before unloading clay that will be used to make bricks in factories that line the Rio Paraguay in Concepción, Paraguay." width="450" height="299" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Boatmen take a break before unloading clay that will be used to make bricks in factories that line the Río Paraguay in Concepción, Paraguay.</p></div>
<p>&#8220;While we talked a lot about technology, sometimes the good ole stuff is pretty neat. These are two of six men who make two trips each day, seven days a week, to haul dirt from the other shore further up the river. It&#8217;s the first stage of making bricks.</p>
<p>&#8220;I found them in Paraguay, and they proceeded to show me which way to go to find the brick mill, where they were forming brinks and tiles by hand, drying them in the sun, preparing to bake them in a massive kiln that could<br />
have been &#8212; and might have been &#8212; built in the early 1800s.&#8221;</p>
<p style="text-align:center;">&#8212;</p>
<p>I put this extended caption in quotations because it is from an email I sent to <a href="http://www.andrewmatusik.com/">Andrew Matusik</a>, an outstanding and <span id="more-312"></span>engaging photographer I am currently writing about for an upcoming issue of Rangefinder. I don&#8217;t normally share work (or much at all) with the photographers I interview, even as I dig deep, deep into their personal histories and creative lives.</p>
<p>There is something about Andrew &#8212; I suppose his exciting insistence that he is only at the very beginning of his career, even as he achieve success that many photographers can only dream of &#8212; that I find particularly refreshing.</p>
<p>Andrew responded to my email with some very insightful comments, along with this black-and-white conversion of the image. Thanks for the feedback, Andrew!</p>
<div id="attachment_314" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 460px"><img class="size-full wp-image-314" title="20050210_0396_egs_bw" src="http://ethansalwen.files.wordpress.com/2009/02/20050210_0396_egs_bw.jpg" alt="Andrew's B&amp;W version." width="450" height="299" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Andrew&#39;s B&amp;W version. Which one do you like better, and why?</p></div>
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		<item>
		<title>My Standard Porteño Breakfast</title>
		<link>http://www.ethansalwen.com/2009/01/my-standard-porteno-breakfast/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ethansalwen.com/2009/01/my-standard-porteno-breakfast/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 25 Jan 2009 16:54:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ethan G. Salwen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Buenos Aires]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Life Among Porteños]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travels]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://ethansalwen.wordpress.com/?p=257</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#8217;ve eaten this classic Buenos Aires breakfast hundreds of times before, and I can imagine stopping anytime soon. This is what they just delivered me here at &#8220;Américas&#8221; restaurant here in the Caballito neighborhood when I ordered: &#8220;Café con leche con tres medialunas de manteca.&#8221; The small glass of &#8220;agua con gas&#8221; is automatically delivered [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_261" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 378px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-261" style="border:2px solid black;margin:0;" title="salwen_090125_78181" src="http://ethansalwen.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/salwen_090125_78181.jpg?w=300" alt="Café con leche and medialunas in Buenos Aires." width="368" height="278" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Café con leche and medialunas in Buenos Aires.</p></div>
<p>I&#8217;ve eaten this classic Buenos Aires breakfast hundreds of times before, and I can imagine stopping anytime soon. This is what they just delivered me here at &#8220;Américas&#8221; restaurant here in the Caballito neighborhood when I ordered:</p>
<p>&#8220;Café con leche con tres medialunas de manteca.&#8221; The small glass of &#8220;agua con gas&#8221; is automatically delivered on the side and, in true porteño form, a pile of sugar is provided to dump into the rich, milky coffee. Talk about &#8220;yum!&#8221; meets &#8220;comfortingly familiar.&#8221;</p>
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		<title>Train Into Thin Air</title>
		<link>http://www.ethansalwen.com/0206/12/train-into-thin-air/</link>
		<comments>http://www.ethansalwen.com/0206/12/train-into-thin-air/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Dec 0206 05:53:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Ethan G. Salwen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Images]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Huancayo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Peru]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Train]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Train Travel]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.ethansalwen.com/?p=1605</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The train journey from Lima to Huancayo, Peru, is the second highest railroad in the world. Starting at sea level and landing at 4,200 meters in a small, valley city high in the Andes Mountains, the train tops out over 5,000 meters &#8212; in less than nine hours. The trip took 14 hours. This tourist [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.ethansalwen.com/perutrainjourney/"></a></p>
<div id="attachment_1394" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 304px"><a href="http://www.ethansalwen.com/perutrainjourney/" target="_blank"><img class="size-full wp-image-1394 " style="margin-left: 10px; margin-right: 0px;" title="Train Journey from Lima to Huancayo, Peru" src="http://www.ethansalwen.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/Train-Journey-from-Lima-to-Huancayo-Peru4.jpg" alt="" width="294" height="200" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Train Journey from Lima to Huancayo, Peru.</p></div>
<p>The <a href="http://www.ethansalwen.com/perutrainjourney/" target="_blank">train journey from Lima to Huancayo,   Peru</a>, is the  second highest railroad in the world. Starting at sea  level and landing at 4,200 meters in a small, valley city high in the  Andes Mountains, the train tops out over 5,000  meters &#8212; in less than  nine hours. The trip took 14 hours.</p>
<p>This tourist trip was the firs time the Huancayo  line served passengers since a bomb destroyed bridge on the historic  line in 1980s. All but eight  passengers were Peruvians, many of whom  seemed board on this inaugural  tourist trop.</p>
<p>As  the train strained forward on steep switchbacks, I found it hard to  take in the expanse of the Andes. A treeless, brutal, gray mountain scape.</p>
<p>At  the end of the trip, the few  passengers still standing were festively  celebrating in the rear observation deck, complete with bar, mounted on  top of the framework of an old freight train.</p>
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